BUYER’S GUIDE

Land Rover Series II review

More affordable and usable than a Series I but with all the old-school charm you’d wish for in a trad Landie…

What Is It?

A decade on from its launch, the original Land Rover’s Meccano aesthetics needed an update. Rover designer David Bache (who went on to create icons like the Rover SD1 and Range Rover) added a subtle curve to the tops of the wings that continued into a ‘shoulder’ running the length of the vehicle — a styling signature celebrated in the modern Defender. Under the smoother skin it was still a good old Land Rover, though engines and refinement were steadily improved. For its combination of old-school charm and improved driveability, the Series II remains an appealing way to scratch the classic Landie itch, the 6 Cylinder version adding a degree of sophistication.

Corrosive Areas

Chassis ‘dumb irons’

Front bulkhead

Door frames

Checklist

A small number of early Series IIs used 2.0-litre petrol engines carried over from the Series I, though production quickly shifted to the significantly more powerful 2.3-litre, or 2.25-litre as known in Land Rover circles
This 2.3-litre petrol was based on the diesel from the Series I, this continuing as an option on the Series II
Series IIA introduced in 1961 with an updated version of the 2.3-litre diesel engine, among other detail improvements
New 6 Cylinder version of the long-wheelbase introduced in 1967 with extra refinement and ‘motorway’ performance; new instruments, bigger clutch and servo-assisted brakes also included
Further updates to Series IIA launched in 1969, most obvious being repositioning of headlights from the grille to the outer wings; engines also modified for improved power — by this stage the range comprised as many as 38 combinations of engine, chassis length and body style
All engines considered simple and tough when looked after properly — oil leaks are part and parcel but check for usual signs of smoke, contaminated oil, serious bottom-end rattles and similar
Gearbox demands combination of muscle and finesse but serious baulks, clonks and similar may be warning signs of worn internals
Check high-range four-wheel drive engages properly when pressing yellow knob — at a standstill cycle the red knob to select low-range and then back into high to make sure it then pops back
Aluminium panels obviously don’t rust but steel framework does, and corrosion where materials meet can be an issue
Front bulkhead a notorious rust trap and potentially expensive to address — take advantage of the lack of interior trim to inspect this and footwells carefully
Steel chassis has numerous rust traps and may bear signs of previous patch-ups and repairs; get under the vehicle for a proper inspection, paying particular attention to front ‘dumb irons’, spring carriers, outriggers and rear crossmember
Swapping a rotten chassis out for a new galvanised replacement may be more cost-effective than repairs, though installation is obviously time consuming and expensive, and may throw up need for additional work

How does it drive?

The Series II doesn’t just look a little slicker, it also drives better if still very much like a classic Land Rover, with all the physicality and ergonomic ‘character’ that brings with it. Thank wider track and softer springs for this more civilised driving experience, all things relative of course. A six-cylinder option improved performance but modern motorway speeds will still be a distant dream, meaning all are better suited to pottering along the lanes, elbow out of the window for a bit of extra leverage on the skinny steering wheel.

Should you choose to take it off the tarmac, it goes without saying the Series II is as tough and unstoppable as you’d hope. If that is your intention, a diesel will be well up to the job but is slow on the road — if that’s where you’ll be doing most of your driving then petrol is probably the better bet.

What’s good?

As Series I Land Rovers slip into the realms of collector cars and expensive trinkets for the purists, a Series II looks increasingly appealing, given it’s got much of the same back-to-basics charm but at a relatively more attainable price, and with just a tad more sophistication and performance.

The slightly more refined and muscular styling is also very appealing, and a small but significant step on from the farm machinery vibes of the Series I. It’s also old enough to still have the ‘fix it with hammers’ simplicity of the original, meaning much of the (inevitable) ongoing maintenance is within the scope of driveway spanner twiddling. Which, generously, is all part of the charm of owning an old Land Rover.

What’s bad?

See above! For all the simplicity and toughness a Land Rover of this vintage is not a turn-key classic you can expect to enjoy without the necessary investment of time and tinkering to keep it sweet. For many fans that’s all part of the fun, and there’s a huge support network of knowledge, parts and the rest to help you along the way.

Given even the youngest is now 50-plus years old, any Series II will have lived a life of repairs, restorations and hard living. Rusty chassis and aluminium-skinned bodywork capable of hiding all manner of horrors, ditto the handiwork of previous owners and potential for bodged repairs, DIY modifications and more. Land a bad one and the potential for emotional and financial distress can be strong, so take your time to look at as many as you can.

Which model to choose?

The best you can afford is always sound advice with any classic, and applies perhaps even more so to old Land Rovers, given the temptation to buy with the heart rather than the head. For all the choices between petrol, diesel and six-cylinder engines, performance is modest in all so best to settle on your planned usage before going too far, whether that be an endearingly battered, canvas-backed short-wheelbase for a bit of green-lane fun, or a more stylish and family-friendly classic in the shape of a long-wheelbase station wagon. Aesthetically, your big choice is between old-school inboard headlights or the later wing-mounted style introduced later in the Series II’s life.

Specifications – Series II petrol LWB Station Wagon

Engine

2.3-litre four-cylinder petrol

Power

77PS (57kW) @ 4,250rpm

Torque

168Nm (124lb ft) @ 2,500rpm

Transmission

Four-speed manual with low-range transfer, four-wheel drive

Kerb weight

1,497kg

0-62mph

Eventually

Top speed

c. 60mph

Production dates

1958-1971 (all versions)