BUYER’S GUIDE

Triumph TR4/TR4a review

A classic British roadster wrapped in stylish Italian bodywork, the Triumph TR4 offers a more muscular alternative to an MG B or Spitfire…

What Is It?

An evolution of the TR2 and TR3 that came before it, the Triumph TR4 stuck with the traditional body-on-frame construction and an engine originally intended for powering tractors, while combining it with more modern Italian styling courtesy of Michelotti’s sharply drawn and muscular bodywork.

Like its Austin Healey 100 contemporary, the TR4 was considered at the more macho end of the 60s British sports car spectrum than the Spitfires, Sprites and MG Bs that followed and, like the Healey, it later cemented that image with a switch to burlier six-cylinder engines.

While the later TR6 came to define that reputation and sold in greater numbers, the TR4 has a purity about it that remains very appealing to this day, the torquey four-cylinder engine, raw driving style and signature features like the optional hardtop with its removable roof panel all very appealing.

Corrosive Areas

Sills

Inner wings

Rear suspension mounts

Checklist

Telling a TR4 apart from the later TR4a isn’t too difficult, given the latter often has an ‘IRS’ badge at the back denoting Independent Rear Suspension – the TR4a also has an obvious indicator repeater at the leading edge of the front wing that integrates into the chrome strip running the length of the bodywork
As standard, TR4s generally sold with painted metal dashboards while the TR4a gained wood trim – many earlier cars will have been updated with this at some point in their lives if it wasn’t fitted as an option originally
A significant proportion of TR4s were sold in the US; some may have found their way back and converted back to right-hand-drive but cars originally built as LHD will have an ‘L’ suffix on the chassis number
Some TR4a models built for the US market were sold with the previous live-axle arrangement, so a left-hand drive TR4a may not necessarily have independent rear suspension
Sagging sills or chassis members can manifest as inconsistent panel gaps, especially on the doors so make sure everything lines up and, if it doesn’t, consider it a prompt for further investigation
Rust can appear anywhere so scrutinise every panel, every join and have a feel around behind arch lips and other areas for corrosion you might not be able to see
Whether fitted with the optional hardtop or not, check for water leaks and make sure there are no damp carpets or other signs of ingress
If possible, get the car up on ramps so you can have a good look at the state of the chassis; oil from the engine may protect the front section but outriggers and rear suspension mounts can be vulnerable
Given the expense and difficulty of repairing windscreen frames some may have been bodged with filler; flex in response to a tug of the top of the screen surround is a worrying sign
Engines are generally tough but should be checked for the usual signs of failing head gaskets, knocking from crankshaft bearings and signs the cooling system isn’t working as it should
Gearboxes can be a little more fragile so check for any unwarranted noises and make sure the overdrive works correctly – if not it could be an electrical issue or a sign of low oil

How does it drive?

While a tractor engine doesn’t sound the most inspiring powerplant for a sports car, it’s worth remembering the Coventry Climax powering British Formula 1 success at the same time was originally intended for fire pumps and forklifts. Enlarged to 2.2-litres for the TR4, the Standard-supplied engine may not have had exotic roots but its torquey power delivery and rorty sound are key to the TR4’s character and celebrated then and now.

Combined with a short-geared four-speed manual, the TR4’s muscular power delivery suited the looks, the overdrive available on second, third and fourth gears meaning it also had the legs to hit a credible 100mph-plus top speed. True, the separate chassis construction and leaf-sprung live-axle means there’s a degree of traditional shudder and shimmy when pressing on. But the TR4’s fast-geared rack and pinion steering, decent brakes and solidity mean fun and predictable handling, the later TR4a introducing independent rear-suspension for improved road holding without diluting the signature rawness.

What’s good?

While the later TR6 sold in greater numbers and has the added appeal of the bigger, six-cylinder engine, there’s a sharpness about the TR4’s styling that arguably makes it the prettier car. And the hooded lights, offset power bulge on the bonnet over the twin carbs and sharp-edged fins at the rear have all aged very nicely indeed. If you can find one with the optional hard-top, you’ve also got the flexibility of running it as a coupé or targa-style convertible with the removable centre panel, with the vinyl ‘Surrey Top’ section tucked in the boot if you get caught in a shower.

Raced to a commanding class win at Sebring in 1963, TR4s have long been popular with privateer competitors in racing and rallying as well, the inherent toughness and simplicity much valued. A reasonable boot means you need not pack light for a longer trip either, the area behind the driver and passenger sometimes configured as an occasional seat but probably better used as additional luggage space these days. The TR series is also supported by a strong network of parts and expertise as well, so you can run or restore one in the knowledge there’s back-up available.

What’s bad?

Predictable given its vintage, but rust is always going to be the deciding factor on whether a TR4 lives or dies. Of particular concern is the windscreen frame, given it’s structural and one of the few bits of metalwork you can’t get replacements for. The rest of the panels and parts are available, meaning a car could be brought back from the brink assuming you have the money to invest in it but, as ever, costs can quickly spiral and labour will be the real expense.

Corrosion can occur anywhere, but anything visible should be considered a warning of more where that came from deeper within the structure, poor panel alignment on the trailing edge of the doors suggestive of a sagging chassis or poor quality restoration. Prices for good cars are also climbing inexorably, meaning a TR4s aren’t the affordable classic they might once have been.

Which model to choose?

If slightly overshadowed by the six-cylinder TR5 and more numerous TR6 that saw the series through to the end of production, the TR4 looks increasingly appealing. Other than the switch to independent rear suspension with the TR4a in 1965, there aren’t really any major differences to factor in over the course of the model’s life, so choosing one basically comes down to finding the best example at your given budget.

Is it worth holding out for one of those later cars, though? Opinion differs and, while the independent rear suspension means more civilised ride and handling, there are fewer cars in this specification to choose from and they are quite a bit more expensive to buy. Some even rate the purity of the original TR4 as one of its more appealing characteristics as well, so saving a little bit of cash and going for one of these probably seems the sensible option. One with the optional hardtop would be nice, as well.

Specifications – Triumph TR4

Engine

2.2-litre four-cylinder petrol

Power

c.101PS (74kW) @4,600rpm

Torque

172Nm (127lb ft) @3,350rpm

Transmission

Four-speed manual (selectable overdrive on second, third and fourth), rear-wheel drive

Kerb weight

c. 966kg

0-62mph

c. 11 seconds

Top speed

103mph

Production dates

1961-1965 (TR4a 1965-1967)